Displaced surfboards

We continued our journey down the West Coast of Galicia driving up and down all the Rias (large sea lochs) before heading east along the bottom of Galicia aiming for the Parque Natural de Montesinho in the top North East corner of Portugal.

Unusually, rather than to maintain the countryside. the park was set up to protect the sixty odd traditional villages in the area.  We ended up camping at the one of the two campsites in the park just outside the village of Gondesende.

Campsite at Gondesende

We decided that a bike tour around the various villages was the best way to get a feel for the place and so set off on 40 km(ish) ride around the national park close to the campsite. We didn’t expect many tea shops along the route so when we spotted what looked like a bar, a few faded plastic seats outside a house with an open door (although the bar sign above the door did give it away!) in Torroso, we thought we would grab the opportunity for a coffee. So we poked our heads around the door to be greeted by an old guy, with one false arm and a hook for the other, who appeared from behind us.  Once we had managed to communicate (poorly) that we were after coffee, he said “una momento” and disappeared down the street only to return with an old lady (assumed to be his wife?) whom he then instructs on how to use the espresso machine in the bar.

Coffee stop at Torroso

Church at Torroso

Two coffees later (for the princely sum of 1 euro) we were sitting outside the bar when the old man came out and presented Sharon with the gift of a pen knife and printed prayer in Portuguese and pointed across at the church directly opposite the bar. He then disappeared only to reappear talking into his mobile phone. Two minutes later another old lady appeared with the keys to the church and we were given an impromptu guided tour! Outside the church was plain but inside was it full of gold leaf and polished marble.