We turned right!

Well we have made our big decision we turned right so will be going around Spain and Portugal anticlockwise. It wasn’t so much of a decision as the way things turned out.

In the end we hung around the Picos De Europa for 5 days, again not planned, but it seemed such a great place to spend some time – you know it’s good when you start saying ‘next time we come we will do x, y and z’.

We spent one day walking up to the La Viorna cross on the “hill” above Potes – it took just over 2 hours to make the 800m climb over 4.1 km so the average gradient was 1 in 5 and it felt like it! Great view from the top, but slightly disappointed to find a Range Rover that had come up the 4 x 4 track on the other side to launch some paragliders – especially after suffering the pain of the climb!

La Viorna Cross - after 800 m climb

La Viorna Cross – after 800 m climb

Paraglider above Potes

Paraglider above Potes

The following day we drove to Fuente De, and took the cable car to the top, 50 m less climbing at 750 m and it took less than 4 minutes!

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Cool view

Top of Fuente De

Top of Fuente De

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Still winter up here

On Wednesday we decided to go up to Los Lagos Del Covadonga. We had heard that the road up was tight and twisty and according to some reports on Trip Advisor “you take your life in your hands”. We decided to drive it anyway and it was tight and twisty and in places crumbling at the sides – more daunting going up (with a lot of the road unsighted) than coming down. The view and the walking at the top were definitely worth the drive.

Los Lagos Del Covadonga

Los Lagos Del Covadonga

We headed over to the coast to Gijon for the evening to a campsite on the coast, although we are not sure how official the site is as the owner seemed keen to point out all the out of date documentation before we agreed to stay – still not sure what the implications are. Only stayed here for one night before heading inland again. Managed to fit in a bike ride along the promenade in the afternoon before enjoying some more local cider. We have even bought a special aeration device which fits into the top of the bottle to aerate it as its poured, will need to buy a few more bottles to justify the investment!

Bike stand Gijon

Bike stand Gijon

After Gijon we headed inland to the Somiedo National Park and specifically to Valle De Lago, at 1250m. The climb up was interesting – very steep and a few first gear hairpin bends together with sections where the missing Armco had been replaced with sticks and baler twine!  We had asked about the suitability of the climb in a van at the tourist office in Pola De Somiedo (the village before the climb) and there was lots of sucking in of breath and mutterings implying it was very tight. We made it and if you are reading this we also made it back down!

I'm glad Sharon figured this one out!

I’m glad Sharon figured this one out!

Campsite to ourselves

Campsite to ourselves

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Valle De Lago

It was a bit in the clouds on arrival and when we awoke the next day we were slightly surprised to see it snowing, luckily only showers and it didn’t prevent us from completing our planned walk from the campsite to the Lago De Valle.

On the road again!

We are now in Spain after a 24 hr ferry crossing which turned into 26 hour crossing as someone need winching from the boat in the middle of the night. A truck driver apparently whose drink had reacted with his “medicine” or so the gossip goes. This happened at 3 in the morning however we managed to sleep thorough hovering helicopter and search lights etc.

The Guggenheim - Bilbao

The Guggenheim – Bilbao

We  spent a couple of days in and around Bilbao, made it to the Guggenheim for some culture,  the most impressive exhibit being massive circular and elliptical maze like sculptures constructed in 2” thick steel plate designed / “sculpted” by Richard Serra. Walking into them really messes with your sense of space and distance and leaves you feeling spaced out when you leave the gallery.

Richard Serra's - A matter of time

Richard Serra’s – A matter of time

Campsite Potes - Picos De Europa

Campsite Potes – Picos De Europa

Now we are in the Picos De Europa National Park, approx. 100 km South West of Santander. We are camped up just outside the small town of Potes approx. 200 to 300m below the snow line. The area is very alpine and we are basking in spring conditions of 25oC whilst the snow rapidly melts and fills the rivers.

I'm sure we are going the right way!

I’m sure we are going the right way!

We went on our first trek today to get a feel for the area and managed to go round the route in reverse and did not realise until halfway around! Lots of looking at the not very detailed map convincing ourselves we were where we weren’t! Anyway managed to compete it albeit backwards and rewarded ourselves with a glass of locally brewed cider (1 euro / glass) in a bar in town (I can see why people choose to retire in Spain!).

Easter in the Scottish snow

Easter was spent skiing, boarding, walking and cycling – my legs are officially shot! but a great weekend.

Managed to get two days skiing and boarding at Glenshee (Good Friday & Easter Monday), a 17km walk up and over King’s Seat in the Ochils, and a ride up to Carron Valley for a ride (slide!) around the MTB trail.

Riding the chair - Glenshee

Riding the chair – Glenshee

Sun, snow and a board

Sun, snow and a board

A great day to ski & board

A great day to ski & board

Snowy walk up to King's Seat

Snowy walk up to King’s Seat

Carron Valley - conditions best described as un-groomed hard pack - passable with care!

Carron Valley – conditions best described as un-groomed hard pack – passable with care!

A great result as we expected to have to forgo our winter fun this year.

Posted in UK

All bases covered!

Our planned Easter in Wales has morphed into Easter in Scotland! Mainly due to the current weather and the fact that a number of the group had planned to camp in Wales. In Scotland we get to return to a nice warm house each night – a major draw given the cold weather.

It also opens up the opportunity for some skiing and snowboarding, which will be good as I failed in my attempt to convince Sharon that taking the van to the Alps and using it as a “chalet” was a good idea.

Hopefully the wind will drop and the slopes in Scotland will be open. The last time I boarded in Scotland the wind whipped up a blizzard and it was a complete white-out with no idea which way was up or down the slope – the only time I have felt travel sick on a snowboard! Conditions this weekend look to be far better.

We have also packed mountain bikes and walking gear, covering all bases, so looking forward to a great weekend.

All bases covered - biking, walking, boarding

All bases covered – biking, walking, boarding

We are finding that after a couple of days at home we are getting itchy feet so earlier this week we headed across to the Suffolk Coast for a couple of days (bracing!), for some walking. Even managed to make it to Southwold for a pint of Broadside in the Lord Nelson.

Initial planning for the next part of our trip is complete and we get the ferry from Portsmouth to Bilbao in a couple of weeks to start exploring Spain and Portugal.

Posted in UK

Return home

We’ve been back home now for a couple of days following our trip to Australia. Overall we have driven about 8000km in 8 weeks, and I have sketched out our approximate route below.

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Whilst we were away the temperature was rarely below 30 degrees C and although during our time in Australia there were bush fires, cyclones and floods we managed to pick our way around these and not get directly involved, although we did need to change our plans on occasion to accommodate!

We now have a couple of weeks before heading across to Wales for Easter and some mountain biking. Having not  been on a bike for 2 months and partaken of a few too many aussie beers and wines some training rides are called for.

After Easter we plan to head off in our van again. Originally we had planned to go up through Scandinavia, however after seeing temperatures in Oslo of -15 I think this requires a rethink!

I did have the idea of trying to persuade Sharon to take our skiing and snowboarding gear and maybe head down to the Alps to catch the end of the season but I think a camping ski trip will be a hard sale!

We will have a think over the next couple of weeks and come up with a plan – we’ll let you know……

Into the hills

After some good walking over a few days at Cape Otway we continued along the Great Ocean Rd before heading inland to the Grampians National Park.

The Twelve Apostles - Gt Ocean Rd

The Twelve Apostles – Gt Ocean Rd

Our plan is to stay here, in Halls Gap, for the next six nights and we will be joined by my brother and his family at the weekend for another camping adventure.

At the top of the Pinnacle

At the top of the Pinnacle

The Grampians are called the Australian Pyrenees so the walking here is pretty up and down as you would expect, plus a fair bit of rock scrambling in places. So far we have managed to complete The Pinnacle, Clematis Falls and Chatauqua Peak walks.

The climb up Chatauqua Peak

The climb up Chatauqua Peak

The route guide said some scrambling - nothing about hanging of the side of a mountain!

The route guide said some scrambling – nothing about hanging off the side of a mountain!

 

Looking forward to the weekend when the kids arrive so we can have a rest!

Camping with the koalas

After flying back from Cairns we spent a couple of days in Melbourne, visiting the city and getting chance to catch up over a BBQ (English-style inside as it rained) with some friends who we last saw 4 years ago.

We have decided to spend our final couple of weeks here in Victoria so have headed down to the Great Ocean Road. This is a stretch of road covering almost 300km which was not built as a means of getting from A to B, but was hand-built by returned First World War soldiers as a memorial to their fallen comrades. Opened in 1932 it must be one of the most scenic drives in the world, hence why we are here again despite having driven here on our last trip to Australia.

Gt Ocean Rd - Plaque

Gt Ocean Rd – Plaque

Gt Ocean Rd

Gt Ocean Rd

The campervan is no more, so we now have a little hire car and are finding accommodation as we go. Last night was particularly successful, as having arrived in Lorne, one of the small towns, we went to the Tourist Information Office to see what was available. They told us of a hotel about1km along the coast where they had rooms starting at $Aus68 (about 46 pounds) per night, on special offer (it’s fairly low season here now as the school holidays are long finished). The very jovial man on reception said he had a basic room for $68, an ocean view for $90 or a king ocean view room with spa bath for $120. Having seen the rooms we said we liked the $90 one but it was a bit over our budget so (after a bit of a charm offensive) he ended up letting us have the very best room for $80 – bargain! Even better was when we looked on the internet later and found the full price for the room should be $255 – super bargain!!

Hotel guest

Hotel guest

Back to our more normal levels of accommodation today though – we are staying at a campsite in a little old caravan for $50 a night. ‘Little old caravan’ doesn’t really do it justice though as it’s better inside than out and has been revamped to make a very cosy little space complete with kitchen and double bed. Best of all are the koalas which frequent this area – at the moment there are three in the tree just next to our caravan. We are staying here in Cape Otway for at least three nights and going to do some bush walking – again this is somewhere where we have visited before except last time we stayed in a luxury cottage down the road – that was a) when we both had jobs, and b) hadn’t spent several weeks in Southern Italy, so were slightly more picky!

Caravan shack accommodation

Caravan shack accommodation

Inside Caravan

Inside Caravan

Inside Caravan

Inside Caravan

 

Campsite Neighbour

Campsite Neighbour

Paul's idea of budget accommodation

Paul’s idea of budget accommodation

Cape Otway

Cape Otway

From here we will continue down the Gt Ocean Rd before joining Paul’s brother and his family next weekend camping in the Grampians for the labour day weekend. It’s the last public holiday of the summer, and our last weekend in Australia (for this trip!).

Air conditioning – at last!

After Cape Tribulation we headed back South to spend the last few days in the camper in Port Douglas before dropping it off in Cairns.

Port Douglas

Port Douglas

4 Mile Beach -Port Douglas

4 Mile Beach -Port Douglas

 

Swimming Buddy

Swimming Buddy

We used Port Douglas as a base to get out to the Great Barrier Reef as we had heard that access from here was on smaller boats rather than larger boats carrying 300+ people. We ended up going out to the reef on a sailing boat (Aquarius) and had the best snorkelling experience that we have had anywhere.

Aquarius

Aquarius

Sit back - relax

Sit back – relax

 

Snorkelling off The Low Islands - Great Barrier Reef

Snorkelling off The Low Islands – Great Barrier Reef

We are now in Cairns in an apartment in the centre of town opposite the supermarket and bottle shop  and sandwiched between a Vietnamese street food outlet and a “gentleman’s club” not exactly quiet but a good location all the same and benefiting from air conditioning which we ran at maximum for the first day.

We have taken it fairly easy here after all our travelling but did make the effort to get up to Karunda in the mountains behind Cairns originally a bit of a hippy town but now bordering on becoming a tourist trap.

Karunda train

Karunda train

The last week in the van was hot particularly at night, day time temps in the low to mid thirties and not dropping below 25oC at night and humidity up at 98%, so the last few days in the apartment have been “cool”.

We fly back to Melbourne tomorrow for  a couple of days before heading off to do some exploring in Victoria for a couple of weeks – our current thinking is to spend some time in the Grampians National Park.

The end of the road!

After 5028 km we have now reached Cape Tribulation north of Cairns which marks the end of the coast road or rather the end of the sealed road. After here it’s a 4 X 4 track only for the next 800 Km to Cape York, the most northerly point on the East Coast. As we are not in a 4 X 4 and are not insured for unsealed roads this point marks the end of our journey (also we only have a few more days with the van in this area before dropping it of in Cairns).

Swimming in The Whitsundays

Swimming in The Whitsundays

Over the past few days we made it to Airlie Beach which is a jumping off point for the Whitsunday Islands, and spent a day in the islands snorkelling and beach hopping including Whitehaven Beach which is reported to be one of the top ten beaches in the world. Whilst there is no doubt it is a great beach we have seen it equalled and bettered by some of the beaches on the West Coast of Scotland albeit snorkelling and swimming may require a greater commitment there!

Whitehaven Beach

Whitehaven Beach

However saying that it is currently stinger season here so swimming in the sea requires the use of a stinger suit comprising of a lightweight tight-fitting lycra all-in-one suit (I have spared you the photos).

Didn't realise jelly fish were such a pain

Didn’t realise jelly fish were such a pain

We then continued North to the Atherton Tablelands using Mission Beach as a convenient overnight stop. Again it was a full day of driving almost continuously through sugar cane fields interspersed with mango orchards which gave way to banana plantations and finally tea and coffee plantations in the Tablelands. 

Testing the water!

Testing the water!

The further North we come the hotter and more humid it gets and the number, size and potential fatality of the wildlife increases. We arrived today at the campsite at Cape Tribulation which is squeezed in between the rain forest and the sea. When we arrived the girl looking after the campsite said she could recommend some “croc free” swimming holes, sounded like she had some good local knowledge, when I ask how long she had been up her she said 3 weeks! A local walk was also suggested to be undertaken at low tide “just keep a look out for crocs when you wade across the creek halfway down the beach”.

Beach at Cape Tribulation

Beach at Cape Tribulation

Across the Tropic of Capricorn

Today we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn on our journey to Cairns, so as is traditional we have broken open a bottle, come to think of it I think that tradition applies to the equator when at sea. Oh well can’t let it go to waste!

Over the past week we have continued north we have been in rainforests and open country side the contrast was most stark at Dorrigo where there is a rainforest on the side of the plateau and within a mile or two on the plateau rolling hills reminiscent of Derbyshire or Yorkshire, albeit slightly warmer.

We have spent the last few days at Rainbow Beach a small coastal surfing-come-backpacking resort at the top of the Sunshine Coast, the beach serving as a road in addition to its usual functions.

The road at Rainbow Beach

The road at Rainbow Beach

Rainbow Beach

Rainbow Beach

We used this as an access point to Fraser Island apparently the largest sand island in the world. It took two attempts to get there as the first day the ferry which takes vehicles (4 X 4 only) ran aground. I did joke with the bus driver that it looked swimmable at under 1 km and he told the tale of how they had tried to introduce cattle farming on the island by swimming the cattle across at low tide. Only 20% made it, the sharks got the rest!

The next day we made it across and drove 45 k up the beach and spent some time swimming in lakes whose only source of water was rainfall direct into the lakes.

4 X 4 beach bus

4 X 4 beach bus

4 X 4 bus on barge to Fraser Island

4 X 4 bus on barge to Fraser Island

Driving along Fraser Island beach

Driving along Fraser Island beach

Swimming in Lake Mckenzie

Swimming in Lake Mckenzie

Maheno shipwreck Fraser Island

Maheno shipwreck Fraser Island

Today has been a driving day we started at 09:00 and didn’t finish until 18:45. We ended up driving at dusk which we have tried to avoid with bouncy things (Kangaroos) launching themselves across the road in front of us.
The campsite we stopped at was more out of necessity rather than choice and is a bit rough and ready. Our pitch is directly opposite the “luxury” cabin which in truth resembles a falling down shed, the site seems mostly populated by back country guys here for fishing and drinking – half expecting to hear the duelling banjos . The large  Queensland guns and knives amnesty sign adds to the feel of the place.

In addition the hotter and more humid conditions mean an abundance of large and varied insects requiring Sharon to purchase a super large can of insecticide – at vast expense from the campsite shop – surely their best selling line!